Monday, September 16, 2013

Education: Tom Ford


There is no better Tom for my celebration of all things Tom than Mr. Tom Ford. To say that I am completely in love with everything that this man does is an understatement. Although I am not financially established enough (yet) to don his designs from head to toe, I take any piece of him I can get (glasses, sunglasses, books, fragrances).


Ford is a celebrated fashion designer and film maker. He was born in the great state of Texas and raised after the age of eleven in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Like many gay men he was strongly influenced by the women in his life, including his eccentric and glamorous grandmother. Who to this day is an inspiration for his jewelry and beauty lines.

After leaving Santa Fe at the age of sixteen, Ford journeyed to New York and studied art history at New York University. He spent only a year in art history before focusing his attention on acting and later studying interior architecture at Parson's.

Life at that time in New York as a rebellious and gorgeous artist, meant Ford was a regular at the infamous Studio 54. It was here that he discovered he was gay (wouldn't we all) and the legendary nightclub has been a major influence on his designs.

Ford's first endeavor in the world of fashion was a summer internship in Paris at the press office for Chloe. After graduating from Parson's he continued to pursue fashion, concealing at interviews that he majored in architecture and instead told possible employers that his work at Chloe was a low-level public relations position.

With no real experience in fashion, all Ford had was his determination. This meant calling Cathy Hardwick every day for a month in hopes of securing a job at her mid-price sportswear company.  Hardwick later recalled the incident, "I had every intention of giving him no hope. I asked him who his favorite European designers were. He said, 'Armani and Chanel.' Months later I asked him why he said that, and he said, 'Because you were wearing something Armani'. Is it any wonder he got the job?"

So Ford worked as a design assistant to Hardwick for two years before moving to Perry Ellis in 1988. Here, he worked another two years before growing tired of the company. He told the New York Times, "If I was ever going to become a good designer, I had to leave America. My own culture was inhibiting me. Too much style in America is tacky. It's looked down upon to be too stylish. Europeans, however, appreciate style."

This led to the position that would cement Ford as an icon in the fashion industry, chief women's ready-to-wear designer at Gucci. At the time, Gucci was a faltering luxury line and the move was quite a risk for Ford. A risk that paid off.

Six months after he was hired, he started to design menswear and later shoes. By 1992, he was heading the brand's ready-to-wear, fragrances, image, advertising, and store design. In 1994, Ford was promoted to creative director and in his first year at the helm was credited with putting the glamour back into fashion. He introduced Halston-style velvet hipsters, skinny satin shirts and car-finish metallic patent boots into the industry. He brought on names like Carine Roitfeld and Mario Testino to create innovative and shockingly sexy ad campaigns. It seems as if he was running wild and the world was eating it up.

By 1999, Gucci, which had been almost bankrupt when Ford joined, was valued at about $4.3 billion. All thanks to the vision that is Tom Ford.

Soon he was heading YSL after Gucci's acquisition of the label and working eighteen hour days designing over eleven different lines, campaigns, runway shows, and stores.

Sadly, all great things must come to an end. In April 2004 Ford parted ways with the Gucci group after he and CEO Domenico de Sole, who is credited as Ford's partner in Gucci's success, failed to agree with PPR bosses over artistic control of the Group. He has since referred to this experience as "devastating" because he had "put everything into that for fifteen years". So much that Gucci was now valued at $10 billion.

But when one door closes, another one opens. Now Ford is the head of his own brand, Tom Ford, which he launched in 2006. Shortly before that, he announced the launch of his production company Fade to Black and in 2009 made his directorial debut with A Single Man. Is there anything this man can't do?

And then there is love. Ford has been linked to his partner, journalist Richard Buckley, since 1986. The two met on an elevator and have been going up ever since. On their first "date", Buckley hid sugary cereals, a guilty pleasure of Ford's, under the bed for the morning. A sugary sentiment in itself and the sweetest thing I think I've ever read.

The Tom Ford image is classic, luxurious, and always sexy. You can't help but be captivated by him in every interview he gives. In the coming week I'm going to explore all things Tom Ford in celebration of my month of Tom. Interior Design, fragrance, film and music are all going to be featured.

And if you enjoy Mr. Ford as much as I do, make sure and pick up the book that celebrates his career at Gucci, Tom Ford.

No comments:

Post a Comment